Changing of the Guard

When you really think about it, nothing happens when the guards change; the same uniforms, the same job descriptions, the same duties, one sentry called Oliver is replaced by another called Charlie replaced by another called Archie.  Yet there is a big half hour to-do about it and somehow it becomes picture worthy.  Which is Read More

Melonville, Springfield or Porpoise Spit?

Who knows.  Who knows?  Was yesterday’s post two days ago?  Is today the fourth day we went to the beach or the seventeenth day we looked at a church?   Was it 36.5 degrees yesterday or was that the day before, and how much hotter is 45 in France to 36 in Puglia?  In Memento the Read More

Ad Meliora

That’s French Baby. I mean, That’s Latin Baby. I got my Marvin Gaye mixed up with my Quintus Horatius. We walked Lecce for the last time after breakfast.  What a beautiful morning (if a tad hot; 28.5 at nine a.m.). After check-out we drove the ridiculously short distance to Nardo.  Free parking.  Public toilets, no Read More

If the Walls Could Talk (it Would be in Latin)

Twenty years ago a guy decides to open a trattoria with his sons.  They’ve got this nice piece of property in the Lecce old town perfect for the tourist trade. Minor thing, the toilet keeps backing up.  So they decide to get a plumber in.  They dig down to replace the sewer pipe and low Read More

Jesus H. Christ…

…does Lecce have a lot of churches.  Mama Mia Cher and Meryl a lot.  90,000 people and 40 choices in the old city alone.  We set out to discover them all.  Not.  However, we did the rounds, and it was a lot of round and round.  But today was only 28, 28.5, with some breeze, Read More

What Can I Do It?

My late friend Giuseppe had a unique and lovable take on English grammar.  He inadvertently created spoonerisms, usually by perfectly mimicking pop music then purposely twisting the inane lyrics, often used the definite article wonderfully inappropriately (my favorite was “the disturb”) and had a very Italian take on the absurdities of British behaviour.  The finest Read More

The Blight on the Piazza

Our first Saturday here, which we spent in Naples (and even at 2 a.m. on a Monday is noisy, busy, chaotic and unpredictable) was noisy, busy, chaotic and wound down around Sunday mass.  Our second Saturday, in Matera, resembled the cruise ship hordes which flood Venice during summer; teeming with day trippers, women in unsound Read More

The Greatest Blog Ever Told

Our longest drive of the holiday, just under 300 kms, was today: From the coast through mountain passes and snaking along valley floors, merging onto the autostrada north, then veering east on the E847.  For all the driving on all the continents over all the years I don’t think we’ve ever driven over so many Read More

The Poseidon Adventure

Another hot sunny day.  Since we were toast from the beach yesterday we opted to drive up the coast to Paestum, a Greek ruins that has some spectacular temples in not bad repair.  I refused to trace our steps along the coast so we trusted Penelope to guide us through another route.  Either she forgot Read More

Put on Your Noseguard. Put on the Lifeguard. Pass the Tanning Butter.

Woke up very early and couldn’t sleep so threw on yesterday’s clothes and went out for a 6:30 a.m. walk; got 7000 steps in before the day had started.  The air was ripe with oleander and jasmine, which litter the roadside, there were myriad bleating goats on the adjacent farm, swallows were up, dive bombing, Read More

1 2